I took the original tee to my sewing bee a couple of Thursdays ago now. I took advice about the gusset insertion to the bodice. Just as well as I was going to shape the pieces like the bodice sides but I was advised to make a smoother more regular shape. The first was a bit like a chilli pepper. The second a slightly bowed triangle. I made this triangle 5cm across at the top, tapering to zero at 18cm. I then added a 1cm seam allowance all around. I carefully marked the bottom of the triangle.
- The gusset is too wide. 1 cm would be adequate.
- The sleeve is too wide by the same amount
|A view looking from narrowed gusset up to narrowed sleeve. You can see how much I was going to remove|
- However, the sleeve cap fits beautifully, so consider just cutting off at the sides. (Considered - done) Note, of course, that this is the original sleeve cap shape as I kept that when I widened the sleeve so the original pattern sleeve cap is lovely.
|I don't have a picture of the lovely sleeve cap at this stage. This is the original sleeve cap shape|
I sewed the bands onto the bottom of the tee. The back of the tee shirt is slightly longer than the front, which is quite nice. However, I didn't know whether I got the bands mixed up or whether I didn’t sew properly (I had lost my marks) but the front and back band didn’t end up at the same place, though they should have. I decided that for the toile this didn’t matter. I was going to sew up the sides as per instructions but then read a review where the reviewer said she’d definitely add the bands afterwards. I was going to ask in my next sewing bee but realised that despite me not having lengthened this pattern at all and me being tall, I found the length too long - more like tunic than a tee. So I decided I was going to chop the tee shorter.
I decided as I was finishing off for the night to machine tack up the sides to see if I could get the top on, with the fabric being less stretchy. Yes, I could. I felt the front armhole has too much fabric and so the next version would need that changed. I guess that the armhole didn’t need built up after the cup size was changed from C/D to G/H; probably I should have gone down a further size in the upper body but remember that I was worried about negative ease. Also, I had already adjusted the sleeves which fitted the armhole beautifully and I wanted to try them out without major further alterations.
Update, rather than a 3rd post!
I took the top to the sewing bee this week. The sleeve needed adjusting front and back and still more width needed taken away from the back armscye - it's now less than a size 12. I've done this to the toile and finished the tee.
I don't have a forward shoulder and don't need this adjustment, so my feeling was initially that this pattern range isn't suitable for me - I don't see the point in undoing an adjustment, particularly when this also affects the sleeve and the sewing order? I'm sure someone who does need this adjustment will welcome that it had already been done in the same way as the FBA had been done. Not a criticism of the pattern or the company. Horses for courses!
|Me in class - quick photo. Proper shoulder line marked in yellow thread but I don't think you can see it. |
It hasn't been pressed at this stage
I did the decorative stitching over the shoulder seam this afternoon and just managed, as it was getting dark, to get some photos
|Back- there's quite a bit of fabric pooling and David feels a couple of inches too wide in higher back. He likes it|
|Side - there's a fold above bust. |
I hope you appreciate this is a natural photo! There are certain parts of me I prefer not to show off!
|Front. I tried to stand upright without twisting. I think you can just see that the shoulder is a bit far forward. I don't like the fabric folds above the arm.|
- Actually very little - only fitting, which is always necessary
- I did not make any changes at all to the neckline
- I did not change the length
- I did not change the style
- I had to go up to the G/H cup size.
- This meant I had to go down at least one size.
- Originally the charts suggested 14G/H or 16 C/D (the latter being more appropriate because of my larger than pattern waist size) but because I didn't want too much negative ease over the bust I took advice to go up a size and make 18C/D.
- There was insufficient bust coverage and armhole gaping together with a too low front armscye in my first toile.
- My next toile was a 16G/H, but trimming has narrowed the back to around a 12. The front is not narrowed so much - it's probably between a 14 and 16.
- I had to add a smidgen to the sleeve width but the cap had to be reduced - this, no doubt, the result of my alteration, which was only partly undone - that is, I narrowed the sleeve by taking in at the sides and this left the sleeve cap too big. At least that's what I think. I haven't asked specifically about this.
- I will adjust the shoulder and sleeve to alter the shoulder position for next time. I'm not sure what else might be required. Do you have comments, please?
- Of course, this fabric has less stretch than the one I actually intended to use - so that will have to be taken into account.
During my enforced break from sewing classes and sewing bees (mid term holidays) I began sorting out my sewing stash. It's horrific! David keeps appearing with more… I even found some knit fabrics that would have worked well as a toile for this t-shirt so I needn't have used my good stuff, a rather nice viscose jersey, for the first toile.